The River Runs Through It…
Few
Mpumalanga bound visitors, travelling from Gauteng, will dispute that the
Elands Valley sets the tone and creates the anticipation for the better known
lowveld areas in and around the Kruger Park.
How To Get There
This excitement is experienced whether commuting by road, rail
or indeed air. Two hours from Johannesburg (and 500m higher) one travels
on the N4 past Belfast, Machadodorp and Waterval Boven, before passing
through the NZASM tunnel (as visitors have been doing for over one hundred
years). This is the Elands Valley!
What Makes The Valley Special
The Elands Falls, the 120 year old tunnel, the longest span of
electricity cabling in the world, the imported, turn-of-the-century, dressed
stone NZASM railway tunnel, and Five Arch bridge, imposing sheer red sandstone
cliffs, and the Elands River all assail ones' senses within minutes of
each other, the moment one descends into this very special valley from
out of the tunnel.
On The Maputo Corridor
The Maputo Corridor in the form of the N4 national highway and
the railway line neatly bisects the valley from east to west, providing
easy and safe access to the region.
The Elands Valley is demarcated by the
NZASM tunnel in the west, the Transvaal Drakensberg mountain ranges in
the south and north, and the Montrose falls in the east.
The Valley Helped Shape South Africa 's
History
The
area is steeped in history with President Paul Kruger's last home situated
neatly in the centre of the valley at Waterval Onder. His home is now a
museum, worthy of a quiet 45 minutes or so. Rumours and treasure hunts
continue, in anticipation of one day unearthing the fabled Kruger Millions.
Iron Crosses and Ghosts
Within a stones-throw of the Kruger Hof lie some 35 British soldiers
under their hundred-year-old iron crosses. Several other worthwhile Anglo-Boer
grave sites are located in the valley. The story of the British soldier
who still meets his Afrikaans lover at Waterval Onder is well documented
as one of South Africa's favourite ghost stories.
Several blockhouses,
fortifications and the site of a Boer prisoner-of-war camp, endear the
valley with wonderful stories encouraging exploratory visits, as too do
the 300-year-old kraals that litter the hillsides of the Elands Valley.
Topography and Climate
Having a topography ranging in altitude from 2 000m (similar
to Dullstroom's height) down to a distinctly lowveld 1100m, the valley
is unique in its climate. Summers are made up of hot days and temperate
evenings, due to the air flowing off the highveld. Winters have cool evenings
with balmy days. The weather does not get much better than this. Importantly,
there is no malaria in the Valley. Rainfall is higher than the lowveld
with the influence of the mist on the edge of the escarpment. Whilst
hiking, it is not uncommon to look down on your own personal cloud floating
below you.
Birds, Bees, Trees and Animals
Due
to the position on the escarpment the area is diverse in its fauna and
flora. Typical trees worth seeking out whilst hiking the valley include
the Karee, River Bush Willow, Mountain Cabbage Tree, White Stinkwood, Cape
Ash, Marula, Red Leaved Rock Fig, and the Cape Fig.
Crested Louries, or Tauraco as they are now correctly named, and various
raptors such as the Crowned Eagle, Martial Eagle, Snake Eagle Jackal Buzzard
and Steppe Buzzard.
Various antelope, typical of the mountainous terrain are regularly
sighted. These include Bush Buck, Mountain Reedbuck, Blesbuck, Grey Duiker,
Red Duiker and Klipspringer.
Last summer a leopard was seen on the main
road near Waterval Boven! More typical predators, often seen include Caracal,
Serval, Civet Cat, Genet, Side Striped Jackal, Black Backed Jackal, Cape
Fox, Brown Hyena and Aardwolf.
The River System
The Elands River (which supports fishing for Trout and a small
scaled Yellow Fish endemic only to the Elands river), flows the length
of the valley constrained by the mountain ranges on either side. Streams
flowing from the mountains into the Elands River are Heysbrook, Schoonspruit,
Swartkoppie, Rietspruit, Mashonamin and Ngodwana. Each of these tributaries
hosts its own private collection of montane plants and animals.
Conservation Minded
All landowners within the Valley, and many residents of relevant
towns, are active members of the Elands Valley Conservancy.
This enthusiastic
group ensures the sustainability and management of the water resource,
the responsible utilisation of the land, as well as fire prevention, crime
prevention, promotion of tourism, and preservation of the overall ecology
of the area.
What the Valley Offers
The
Valley's collection of hotels, lodges, B&B's and self-catering cottages,
offer a smorgasbord of hiking, fishing, historical sites, birding, and
just good old fashioned relaxing - in dramatic and unique scenery within
easy reach of major road and rail routes.
Just
90km from the international airport at Nelspruit and a comfortable two
and a half hour road journey from Johannesburg, the Elands Valley justifiably
can lay claim to being the Gateway to the Kruger Park. Well worth considering
as a stop-off to the game reserves or Mozambique (Waterval Onder is exactly
half way between Johannesburg and Maputo), the valley will surprise you
with its charm and hospitality, easily justifying a visit in it's own right.
What To Do And Where To Stay
The Valley offers gentle activities such as birding, Anglo-Boer
history touring, and fly-fishing. Enjoying the by-gone age of steam trains
is a popular activity. For the more energetic mountain climbing, abseiling
and bridge jumping, come to mind. Hiking on one of the seventeen organised
trails is a perennial favourite of many visitors. Cycling and scrambling
is possible at various locations.
Clay pigeon shooting, horse riding and archery
are offered by some venues. Accommodation is available in various establishments
ranging from five star lodges, to country hotels, to inexpensive good value
self-catering cottages.
Consider the Valley as an overnight stop
or better still stay awhile and experience the Elands Valley.
The river
runs through it…
Drawings of some of the valley's historical buildings and scenery are
by Elize Louw with her kind permission.
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